There are about a dozen types of peperomias usually available and they can be easily split into two groups: variegated and non-variegated varieties.

The most commonly available variegated variety is Peperomia magnoliaefolia variegata, commonly called desert privet. It has striking variegation of cream and green with smooth fleshy rounded leaves. Kept in too much shade, the leaves will start to revert to all green, but when given more light their variegation return.

The variegated varieties should only be propagated from stem cuttings. If the plant is propagated by leaf cuttings it will not came true with its correct variegations and will revert to its non-variegated form.
 

The cuttings of most varieties of peperomia can be placed three to a 87mm (3½ in.) pot or spaced 25 mm (1 in.) apart in a large seedtray. However, the larger varieties can be placed one to a 87mm (3½ in.) pot and up to 50 mm (2 in.) apart in a seedtray. Fill the container with John Innes No.1 compost or an equal mixture of peat and Perlite or sharp sand.

The stem cuttings should comprise a shoot or top section of stem showing a clear example of the plant's variegation (picture 1). A shoot with leaves showing good variegation will enable the new plant to inherit the same colour and chraracteristics as those of its parent.

The cutting should have at least two pairs of leaves and a growing tip. Remove each cutting from just above a leaf joint on the plant itself, making a clean cut to avoid wounding the parent plant unnecessarily.

Remove the lowest pair of leaves from the cutting (picture 2) and then with a sharp blade of a penknife, trim the stem to just below the joint where the leaves were removed (picture 3).
 

Dip the cut end in hormone rooting powder (picture 4). Using a dibber make a hole in the compost and insert the cutting (picture 5); Firm compost around the cutting (picture 6);
 

When the pot or tray has the required number of cuttings water them in and label them with the name of the variety (picture 7). Cover the pot or tray with a polythene or plasic top to keep in the moisture and thereby promote rooting (picture 8). During the summer the cuttings will root in a warm place. At other times of the year bottom heat of 18 degrees Centigrade should be given to the cuttings to ensure quick rooting.

When the plants are showing signs of new shoots pot them up individually into 87mm (3½ in.) pots of John Innes Potting Compost No.1. Label each variety and water them.

As peperomias do not make a lot of root growth those plants already in separate 87mm (3½ in.) pots should stay there until showing clear signs of outgrowing the pot. This advice also applies to potting up mature peperomias. Each spring examine the plant and repot with fresh compost. However only move the plant up to a larger size pot if it is showing clear signs of becoming root bound in its present pot.

Non-variegatred varieties of peperomia are best propagated from leaf cuttings. These leaf cuttings should in turn be cut into segments. The segments are then placed in a container filled with John Innes No.1 compost or a mixture of peat and sharp sand or Perlite. The cuttings are then rooted and grown on as described for the variegated varieties.

A useful point to remember when incorporating peperomias into bottle gardens is to allow headroom for the flowering spikes. This headroom is necessary especially for squat or long bottle gardens without a lot of height.

As a guide the spikes will most likely double the height of the plant. Ensure especially in bottle gardens that after the spikes have flowered, they are removed before they start to rot.

Most peperomias do not grow taller than 30 cm (1 ft), so they make attractive plants by themselves or in an arrangement on a windowledge. Avoid direct sunlight. To make the plants bushy pinch out the growing tips, however do not nip out too many, as it will reduce the number of flowering spikes.

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